How to Change Drum Brakes: A Step-by-Step Overview

Drum brakes are found on the rear wheels of many sedans, trucks, minivans, and older vehicles. They're durable, relatively simple, and when they wear out, they're a repair many mechanically inclined owners can handle at home — provided they understand what's involved before starting.

How Drum Brakes Work

Inside a drum brake assembly, curved brake shoes press outward against the inside of a spinning metal drum to create friction and slow the vehicle. The shoes are pushed by a wheel cylinder, which is hydraulically activated when you press the brake pedal. A series of springs, adjusters, and hardware hold everything in position and return the shoes to their resting position after each stop.

Over time, the friction material on the shoes wears down. When the shoes get thin enough, braking performance drops and you may hear grinding, scraping, or squealing from the rear wheels. Some drums also score or develop grooves over time, which requires either resurfacing or replacing the drum itself.

What You'll Need Before You Start 🔧

The job requires more than just new brake shoes. Before pulling anything apart, gather:

Replacement brake shoes (always replace in axle pairs — both rear wheels at once)
Replacement drum (if worn beyond manufacturer spec, which requires measuring with a brake drum micrometer)
Brake hardware kit (springs, hold-down pins, adjusters — these are often sold as a set for your specific vehicle)
Brake cleaner spray
Brake grease or anti-seize (for specific contact points — never on friction surfaces)
Basic hand tools: socket set, screwdrivers, pliers, a brake spring tool
Wheel chocks, floor jack, and jack stands

Using a vehicle-specific service manual or diagram is strongly recommended. Drum brake assemblies vary between makes, models, and years. Springs, self-adjusters, and parking brake cables connect differently depending on the vehicle.

General Steps for Changing Drum Brakes

This overview covers the general process. Specifics will vary by vehicle.

1. Secure the vehicle Park on a flat surface, set the parking brake (on the front wheels if your drums are in the rear), chock the tires, and loosen the lug nuts before jacking up the vehicle. Support it on jack stands — never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.

2. Remove the wheel With the vehicle safely raised, remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off.

3. Remove the drum On many vehicles, the drum slides off the hub once the wheel is removed. If it's stuck, check for a small threaded hole in the drum's face — you can thread a bolt into it to push the drum free. If the shoes have dug into the drum's inner lip, you may need to back off the self-adjuster first through the adjustment slot on the backing plate.

4. Photograph the assembly before touching anything This step matters. Drum brakes have multiple springs and clips that all need to go back in the right place. Take clear photos from multiple angles before disassembly.

5. Remove the springs and hardware Using a brake spring tool (trying to do this with regular pliers risks injury and bent springs), remove the return springs, hold-down springs, and any clips. Keep parts organized by side — left and right assemblies are mirror images of each other, so you can reference the untouched side if needed.

6. Remove the old brake shoes Once the springs and hardware are off, the shoes come free. Note how the parking brake cable attaches and disconnect it if needed.

7. Clean the backing plate Use brake cleaner to remove dust and debris. Apply a thin film of brake grease only to the raised contact pads where the shoes slide — not on any friction surfaces.

8. Install new shoes and hardware Using your photos and the new hardware kit, reassemble in reverse order. Most brake shoe kits include a diagram. Reconnect the parking brake cable, install the adjuster, and reinstall the return springs and hold-down hardware.

9. Install the drum and adjust the shoes Slide the drum on. If it drags heavily, back off the adjuster slightly. Shoes should be close enough to the drum to engage quickly but not dragging when the wheel spins freely. Many vehicles have a self-adjusting mechanism that compensates over time with normal brake use.

10. Reinstall the wheel and test Torque lug nuts to spec, lower the vehicle, and before driving, pump the brake pedal firmly several times to seat the shoes against the drum. Check pedal feel before moving.

Factors That Affect Difficulty and Outcome

Not all drum brake jobs are the same. Several variables shape how straightforward — or complicated — the repair turns out to be:

Variable	How It Affects the Job
Vehicle age	Older assemblies may have rusted drums, stuck hardware, or corroded adjusters
Parking brake integration	Some designs weave the parking brake cable through the assembly in complex ways
Drum condition	Worn-past-spec or deeply scored drums require replacement, not just shoe swaps
Hardware kit quality	Cheap springs can fail or seat improperly; OEM or quality aftermarket kits matter
Prior DIY experience	First-timers often underestimate spring tension and reassembly complexity

Parts costs for a basic rear drum brake job generally range from around $40–$120 per axle depending on vehicle and parts quality, though prices vary by region, supplier, and what components need replacing. Labor at a shop adds significantly to that figure.

What the Right Answer Depends On

Drum brake replacement is a learnable DIY job, but it's not a simple one. The assembly behind that drum looks nothing like a disc brake setup — the springs are under real tension, the order of reassembly is specific to your vehicle, and a mistake can mean soft pedal feel, dragging brakes, or a parking brake that doesn't hold.