How to Change Drum Brakes: A Step-by-Step Overview

Drum brakes are found on the rear axles of many cars, trucks, and SUVs — and on all four corners of some older or economy vehicles. They're reliable, relatively simple, and entirely serviceable at home if you have the right tools and patience. But they're also more complex than disc brakes, with more parts that must go back together in a specific way.

Here's how the process generally works, what varies by vehicle, and why the details matter.

How Drum Brakes Work

Inside a drum brake assembly, curved brake shoes press outward against the inside of a spinning metal drum to create friction and slow the wheel. The shoes are pushed outward by a wheel cylinder when you press the brake pedal. A series of springs, adjusters, and hold-down pins keep everything in position and return the shoes to their resting state when you release the pedal.

Because the shoes sit inside the drum — hidden from view — wear is harder to spot without disassembly. Most technicians inspect drums and shoes during tire rotations or other service intervals.

Tools and Parts You'll Need

Before starting, gather:

Floor jack and jack stands (never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack)
Lug wrench or impact driver
Brake spring tool or pliers
Needle-nose pliers
Screwdriver (flathead)
Brake cleaner spray
Brake hardware kit (springs, adjuster, hold-down pins — often sold with shoes)
New brake shoes
Brake drum (if worn beyond specification)
Gloves and eye protection

Some vehicles also require a drum brake adjusting spoon to reset the self-adjuster. Having the vehicle's service manual or a reliable repair database for your exact make and model is strongly recommended — spring orientation and hardware placement vary significantly between vehicles.

The General Process for Changing Drum Brakes 🔧

1. Loosen the lug nuts, then lift and support the vehicle. Work on a flat, stable surface. Always use jack stands rated for your vehicle's weight.

2. Remove the wheel. Set it aside. The drum should now be visible.

3. Remove the brake drum. On many vehicles, the drum slides off the hub once the wheel is removed. If it's stuck — which is common due to rust or shoe contact — lightly tap it with a rubber mallet or use the threaded holes on the drum face (if present) to push it off evenly. Some drums are retained by a small screw; remove that first.

4. Photograph the assembly before touching anything. This step is worth emphasizing. Drum brake assemblies have multiple springs under tension, and each one goes back in a specific location. A photo (or two) from multiple angles is your reference when reassembling.

5. Remove the brake springs. Use a brake spring tool to unhook the return springs from the shoes. These springs are under significant tension — improper removal can cause injury or damage.

6. Remove hold-down pins and clips. These small fasteners hold each shoe flat against the backing plate. Press in and twist to release.

7. Remove the shoes and adjuster. The shoes will now separate from the backing plate. The self-adjuster (a threaded star wheel mechanism) typically sits between the lower ends of the two shoes. Note how it's oriented — it's directional and side-specific on most vehicles.

8. Inspect the wheel cylinder. While the drum is off, inspect the wheel cylinder for leaks or cracks. A wet or crusted appearance around the cylinder indicates it may need replacement. Continuing with a leaking wheel cylinder will contaminate new brake shoes immediately.

9. Clean the backing plate. Use brake cleaner to remove dust and debris. Apply a thin film of brake lubricant to the raised contact points on the backing plate — the metal tabs where the shoe edges rest. Do not get lubricant on the friction material or drum surface.

10. Install new hardware and shoes. Using your photo as a guide, install the new hold-down pins, adjuster, and shoes. Most brake hardware kits include new springs — use them. Reusing old springs that have fatigued can affect braking performance.

11. Reinstall the drum. Before reinstalling, measure the drum's inner diameter if you have any doubt about its condition. Drums have a maximum wear specification stamped on the outer edge. A drum that's too thin or grooved beyond spec should be replaced. Spin the drum by hand after installation — it should turn with slight resistance but not bind.

12. Adjust the brake shoes. Drum brakes require the shoes to sit close to the drum without dragging. Many vehicles self-adjust during reverse braking, but you may need to manually set initial clearance using the adjuster wheel through the backing plate slot.

13. Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle. Torque the lug nuts to spec in a star pattern.

14. Pump the brake pedal before moving the vehicle. The pedal may feel low or soft on the first press. Pump it several times until it feels firm before attempting to drive.

Variables That Affect This Job

Factor	Why It Matters
Vehicle make and model	Spring placement, adjuster design, and drum retention vary widely
Drum condition	A worn or scored drum can reduce shoe contact and stopping power
Wheel cylinder condition	Leaks contaminate new shoes immediately
Parking brake integration	Some rear drum assemblies are more complex when the parking brake uses the same shoes
Prior DIY experience	First-timers may spend significantly longer on spring removal and reassembly

What Different Vehicle Owners Typically Encounter

On older or economy vehicles with drums on all four corners, the job is familiar territory for experienced DIYers but takes longer than a standard disc brake swap. On modern vehicles with rear drums only, the fronts are likely disc brakes — which means the rear drum job is sometimes overlooked until symptoms appear, since rear brakes do less work than front brakes.

On trucks and SUVs, rear drums are often larger with heavier springs, which increases the difficulty of spring removal and reinstallation.

On vehicles with rear drum/parking brake combos, some designs use a secondary set of small shoes just for the parking brake, adding another layer of complexity.

The total parts cost for a rear drum brake job generally ranges from modest to moderate depending on vehicle size and whether you replace the drums themselves, but labor and parts pricing vary considerably by region, shop, and model year. This is a job many experienced DIYers complete in two to four hours per axle on their first attempt — experienced mechanics in less time.