6.7 Powerstroke Long Block: What It Is, What's Included, and What to Know Before You Buy

The 6.7 Powerstroke is Ford's in-house diesel engine, introduced in 2011 for the Super Duty lineup. When one of these engines reaches the end of its useful life — through catastrophic failure, severe wear, or damage beyond simple repair — owners often face a choice between a short block, a long block, or a complete engine replacement. Understanding what a long block actually is helps you evaluate your options clearly.

What Is a Long Block?

A long block is a partially assembled engine that includes the block, crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons, camshaft, cylinder head(s), and valvetrain — essentially everything enclosed within the engine's external surfaces. It typically includes the head gaskets already installed and the heads torqued down.

What a long block does not include:

• Intake and exhaust manifolds
• Turbocharger
• Fuel injection system (injectors, fuel rail, high-pressure pump)
• Oil pan (sometimes)
• Valve covers
• Sensors and wiring
• Accessory drive components (alternator, power steering pump, A/C compressor)
• EGR system components

This matters because when you see a 6.7 Powerstroke long block listed for sale, you're buying the core mechanical assembly — not a drop-in, ready-to-run engine. Your existing ancillary components typically transfer over from the old engine.

Short Block vs. Long Block vs. Complete Engine

For the 6.7 Powerstroke specifically, cylinder head issues — including cracking and warping under extreme heat — are well-documented. This is one reason long blocks are often the preferred option over short blocks: if the heads are compromised, you want fresh ones already in place.

Why the 6.7 Powerstroke Ends Up Needing a Long Block

Several failure modes can bring a 6.7 to this point:

• Coolant intrusion from a cracked head or failed head gasket that goes unaddressed long enough to cause bore and bearing damage
• Hydrolocking — liquid enters a cylinder and the engine stops suddenly, bending rods or cracking the block
• Spun rod bearings from oil starvation or severe neglect
• High-mileage wear across multiple internal components simultaneously, making piecemeal repair impractical
• Injector failure leading to raw fuel washing cylinder walls, accelerating ring and bore wear

In many of these cases, rebuilding individual components costs more in labor than simply installing a remanufactured long block.

Remanufactured vs. Rebuilt vs. Used Long Blocks 🔧

Remanufactured long blocks are disassembled, cleaned, measured, and rebuilt to original equipment specifications using new or reconditioned parts. Tolerances are held to factory spec. These typically carry a warranty — commonly 12 months/unlimited miles or longer, depending on the supplier.

Rebuilt long blocks are rebuilt, but the standards can vary widely. A shop-rebuilt unit may be excellent or inconsistent depending on who did the work and what parts were used. Ask specifically what was replaced and whether it was measured to spec.

Used long blocks pulled from salvage yards carry the most uncertainty. Mileage and condition are often unknown, and internal wear isn't visible. They're typically the lowest-cost option but come with the highest risk, especially in a platform known for head issues.

What to Transfer From Your Old Engine

When installing a 6.7 Powerstroke long block, the following components typically move from the original engine to the replacement:

• Turbocharger (inspect the cartridge; worn turbos shouldn't go on a fresh engine)
• Fuel injectors (have them tested or replace them if mileage warrants it)
• High-pressure fuel pump
• EGR cooler and valve (a common failure point — consider replacing while you're in there)
• Oil cooler (another known weak point on early 6.7s; replacement during a long block swap is practical)
• Intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and up-pipes
• Sensors, brackets, and accessories

This is where labor costs accumulate. The long block itself is only part of the job.

Factors That Affect Total Replacement Cost

Costs vary significantly based on:

• Model year — 2011–2014 engines differ from 2015+ (revised heads, oil cooler design changes, emissions equipment)
• Whether you're doing it yourself or paying a shop — diesel engine swaps are complex; most owners hire a diesel-qualified shop
• Labor rates in your area
• What ancillary components you replace at the same time
• Long block source — remanufactured units from major suppliers typically run several thousand dollars before installation
• Core charge — many suppliers require return of the original engine; fees vary

A full 6.7 Powerstroke long block replacement with ancillary component transfers at a shop is a significant expense by any measure. The spread between a budget used long block with minimal ancillary work and a remanufactured unit with full supporting component replacement is substantial.

The Variables That Determine Your Outcome

Whether a long block swap makes sense — and which type is right — depends on your truck's year, mileage, and condition of the components you'd be reusing. A 2012 with a cracked head and 180,000 miles presents differently than a 2017 with hydrolocking damage at 90,000 miles. The turbo, injectors, EGR, and oil cooler condition all factor into whether a long block becomes a reliable repair or a money pit.

Your specific situation — what failed, what's still serviceable, what the truck is used for, and what a qualified diesel mechanic finds on inspection — determines how far a long block gets you. 🔩