What oil filter your 2007 CR-V needs and where it sits

The 2007 Honda CR-V uses a cartridge-style oil filter located on top of the engine, not a spin-on filter screwed to the side. The filter sits inside a plastic housing with a cap you unscrew by hand or with a filter wrench. This design is common on Honda engines and means you replace only the filter element itself, not a whole canister.

The correct filter part number is Honda 15400-PLM-A01 or 15400-PLM-A02, depending on your specific model year within 2007. Both are genuine Honda filters. Many aftermarket filters also fit — Fram, Mobil 1, and Purolator all make compatible cartridge filters for this engine. Check the box or product listing to confirm it says "2007 Honda CR-V" or lists those part numbers as compatible.

You will also need a new rubber gasket that comes with the filter element. Do not reuse the old gasket; it hardens and can cause leaks.

Key Takeaways

  • The 2007 CR-V has a cartridge filter on top of the engine, not a spin-on filter underneath.
  • The correct Honda part number is 15400-PLM-A01 or 15400-PLM-A02, and many aftermarket brands fit the same housing.
  • You need a filter wrench to unscrew the plastic cap, a drain pan to catch old oil, and a new gasket that comes with the filter element.
  • The whole job takes 10 to 15 minutes once you have the right tools and filter in hand.

Tools and supplies you will need

Gather these items before you start. You will need a filter wrench — specifically one sized for the CR-V's filter cap, usually 74 mm or 86 mm depending on which wrench style fits your housing. A socket-style filter wrench or a strap wrench both work. Do not try to unscrew the cap by hand; it is too tight and you risk stripping the plastic threads.

Bring a drain pan large enough to hold about one quart of old oil, old rags or paper towels, and a clean rag to wipe the filter housing before you install the new element. You will also need the new filter cartridge and gasket. Some people use a small amount of fresh oil to coat the new gasket before installation, which helps it seal — this is optional but common practice.

Work on a level surface with the engine cold or warm but not hot. If you just drove the car, wait 10 minutes so the oil cools enough to handle safely.

Step-by-step filter replacement

Locate the filter housing on top of the engine — it is a round plastic cap with a center bolt or knob. Place your drain pan underneath it to catch spilled oil. Use your filter wrench to turn the cap counterclockwise and unscrew it. It will come off in your hand; set it aside on a clean surface.

Inside the housing, you will see the old filter element. Lift it straight out and dispose of it. Wipe the inside of the housing with a clean rag to remove any debris or old oil residue. Check the rubber gasket on the old filter — if it stuck to the housing instead of coming out with the filter, peel it off and throw it away.

Take the new filter element and slide it into the housing, making sure it sits flat and centered. Screw the plastic cap back on by hand first, then use your filter wrench to tighten it. Do not over-tighten; snug it down firmly but do not force it. The cap should be tight enough that you cannot turn it by hand, but you should not need to strain with the wrench.

Start the engine and let it run for 30 seconds, then turn it off. Wait a minute and check the oil level on the dipstick. Top up if needed. Look under the car and around the filter housing for any drips. If you see oil leaking from the cap, turn off the engine, let it cool, and tighten the cap a bit more.

Common mistakes to avoid

The most common error is forgetting to remove the old rubber gasket from the housing before installing the new filter. If two gaskets stack on top of each other, the new one will not seal and you will have an oil leak. Always inspect the housing and remove any old gasket material before sliding in the new element.

Over-tightening the plastic cap is another frequent problem. The threads are plastic, not metal, and they strip easily if you crank too hard with the wrench. Tighten until snug, then stop. A small leak is easier to fix than a cracked housing.

Do not forget to check your oil level after the first run. The new filter holds a small amount of oil, so your dipstick reading will drop slightly. Top up to the full mark on the dipstick if needed.

When to change your CR-V's oil filter

Honda recommends changing the oil filter every time you change the oil. For a 2007 CR-V, that is typically every 3,000 to 5,000 miles if you drive in normal conditions, or every 7,500 to 10,000 miles if your car is newer and you use synthetic oil. Check your owner's manual for the exact interval for your model, as it depends on whether you have the original engine and what type of oil you use.

If you change your oil on schedule, you will replace the filter at the same time. There is no separate schedule for the filter alone — it is part of the oil service.

Where to buy the filter and what to expect to pay

Genuine Honda filters are sold at Honda dealerships, auto parts stores like AutoZone and O'Reilly, and online retailers like Amazon. Prices vary by brand and source. A genuine Honda filter typically costs between $8 and $15. Aftermarket filters from Fram, Mobil 1, or Purolator usually run $6 to $12. Buying online often costs less than buying in-store, but you pay for shipping unless you order with other items.

If you are having the oil change done at a shop, the filter is usually included in the service cost, or charged as a separate line item of $5 to $10 on top of the oil change price.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a spin-on filter instead of the cartridge filter?

No. The 2007 CR-V is designed for a cartridge filter that sits in a housing on top of the engine. Spin-on filters screw directly onto the engine block and are not compatible with this model. Using the wrong filter type will not fit and could cause damage or leaks.

What happens if I forget to replace the gasket?

The old gasket will harden and may not seal properly. You could develop an oil leak around the filter cap within a few days or weeks of driving. Always use the new gasket that comes with the filter element, and remove any old gasket material from the housing before installing the new filter.

How tight should the filter cap be?

Tighten it until snug — firm enough that you cannot turn it by hand, but not so tight that you have to strain with the wrench. The plastic threads strip easily if over-tightened. A good rule is to tighten until you feel resistance, then give it a quarter turn more and stop.

Can I change the filter without changing the oil?

Technically yes, but it is not recommended. The filter and oil work together, and changing one without the other defeats the purpose of regular maintenance. Honda's service schedule calls for changing both at the same time. If you must change only the filter, expect to do the oil change within the next 500 miles or so.