What oil filter your 2010 Accord needs and where it sits

The 2010 Honda Accord uses a cartridge-style oil filter located on top of the engine, not a spin-on filter screwed to the side. The filter sits inside a cylindrical housing with a black plastic cap. You remove the cap, pull out the old filter element, and drop in a new one — no threading or unscrewing involved.

Honda part number 15400-PLM-A01 is the OEM filter for all 2010 Accord models, whether you have the 2.4-liter four-cylinder or the 3.5-liter V6. Aftermarket equivalents from Fram, Mobil 1, Bosch, and Mann+Hummel all fit the same housing. The filter costs between $8 and $20 depending on the brand. The housing sits on the driver's side of the engine, roughly midway between the front of the car and the firewall, and you can reach it without removing any major components.

Key Takeaways

  • The 2010 Accord uses a cartridge filter inside a housing on top of the engine, not a traditional spin-on filter.
  • Honda part number 15400-PLM-A01 is the correct OEM filter, and common aftermarket brands fit the same housing.
  • You need an oil filter wrench to remove the housing cap — a standard 74mm or 86mm socket works, or a dedicated cartridge filter wrench.
  • Always install a new rubber gasket on the housing cap each time you change the filter to prevent leaks.
  • The entire job takes 10 to 15 minutes once you have the right tools and the engine is cool.

Tools and supplies you'll need

Beyond the filter itself, you need a way to remove the housing cap. A 74mm or 86mm socket on a ratchet wrench works well — check which size fits your Accord's cap before you start. Alternatively, a cartridge oil filter wrench (a band-style tool that grips the cap) costs $10 to $25 and works on most Honda models.

You will also need a new rubber gasket for the housing cap. Honda sells these separately (part number 15412-PLM-A01) for a few dollars. Do not reuse the old gasket — it compresses over time and will leak. Have an oil drain pan ready, a rag or paper towels, and a socket wrench or wrench set to remove the drain plug if you are changing the oil at the same time. If you are working in low light, a flashlight or headlamp makes it easier to see the housing and confirm you have removed the old filter completely.

Step-by-step filter replacement

Start with the engine cold and the car on level ground. If you just drove it, wait at least five minutes for the oil to cool slightly. Locate the filter housing on top of the engine — it is a black plastic cylinder about 3 inches tall. Position your oil drain pan underneath it to catch any spilled oil.

Use your socket wrench or cartridge filter wrench to turn the housing cap counterclockwise. It will loosen gradually; do not force it. Once it is loose enough, unscrew it by hand and set it aside. The old filter element will come out with the cap or remain in the housing — pull it out carefully and dispose of it. Wipe the inside of the housing clean with a rag and look for any rubber debris or old gasket material, removing it completely.

Slide the new filter element into the housing, making sure it seats fully at the bottom. Install the new gasket on the housing cap, then screw the cap back in by hand until the gasket just touches the housing. Tighten it another three-quarters of a turn with your wrench — snug but not cranked down hard. Start the engine and let it idle for 30 seconds, then turn it off and wait a minute before checking the oil level on the dipstick.

Top up the oil if needed, then run the engine again briefly and check underneath the housing for leaks. If you see drips, the cap may not be tight enough — tighten it slightly more. If tightening does not stop the leak, the gasket is probably damaged and needs replacement.

Common mistakes that cause leaks

The most frequent problem is reusing the old gasket or installing the new one upside down. The gasket is a flat rubber ring that sits in a groove on the cap and should face downward into the housing. If it is backwards or missing, oil will seep out around the cap within a day or two of running the engine.

Overtightening the cap is another culprit. The gasket only needs light pressure to seal — cranking it down hard can damage the gasket or crack the plastic housing. Tighten until snug, then stop. Leaving old filter material in the housing will also cause problems, since bits of the old filter can lodge inside and prevent the new filter from seating properly, which leads to leaks or allows unfiltered oil to bypass the filter entirely.

When to replace the filter versus the whole housing

The housing itself rarely fails on a 2010 Accord. If the cap cracks or the threads strip, you can replace just the cap (part number 15410-PLM-A01) without buying a new housing. If the housing body cracks or leaks from the base, the entire assembly must be replaced — this is uncommon and usually only happens after years of neglect or impact damage.

If your filter housing is leaking from the seam where it bolts to the engine, the gasket between the housing and engine block has failed. This is a separate job from changing the filter element and requires removing the housing itself. Most owners never encounter this problem in the life of the car, and it is distinct from the routine filter element replacement described above.

Disposal and recycling

Used oil filters contain residual oil and should not go in the trash. Most auto parts stores that sell filters will take your old one for free — bring it in when you buy the replacement. Some recycling centers and municipal hazardous waste facilities also accept them.

Drain as much oil as possible from the old filter before disposal to reduce mess and environmental impact. Puncture the filter with a nail or drill bit and let it drain into your oil pan for a few minutes before throwing it away.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a spin-on filter on my 2010 Accord instead of the cartridge type?

No. The 2010 Accord is designed for a cartridge filter inside the housing on top of the engine. Spin-on filters do not fit the mounting location or the engine's oil system. You must use the cartridge-style filter.

How often should I change the filter?

Honda recommends changing the oil filter every time you change the oil. For a 2010 Accord, that is typically every 5,000 to 10,000 miles depending on your driving conditions and the oil type you use. Check your owner's manual for the exact interval for your model.

What happens if I forget to replace the gasket?

The housing cap will leak oil within a few hours of running the engine. The old gasket compresses and hardens over time, so it cannot seal properly on the second use. Always install a new gasket with each filter change — they cost only a few dollars and prevent a messy leak.

Do I need to change the oil at the same time as the filter?

No, but it is common practice to do both together. You can change just the filter and leave the oil in place. However, if you are already under the car draining the oil, changing the filter at the same time saves you a second trip.

What size wrench do I need to remove the filter cap?

A 74mm or 86mm socket usually fits, depending on your Accord's engine. Try both sizes before you buy — the correct one will fit snugly on the cap. A cartridge filter wrench is a safer choice if you are unsure, since it grips the cap without relying on exact sizing.