What oil filter your 2011 Accord needs and where it sits

The 2011 Honda Accord uses a cartridge-style oil filter that lives inside a plastic housing on top of the engine, not a spin-on filter underneath. The housing is a white or translucent plastic cylinder about 3 inches tall, located toward the front-left of the engine bay when you're facing the car. You'll see it clearly once you pop the hood — it's the most obvious cylindrical part near the valve cover.

The filter element inside that housing is what you actually replace. Honda part number 15400-PLM-A02 is the OEM (original equipment manufacturer) filter for all 2011 Accords, whether you have the 2.4-liter four-cylinder or the 3.5-liter V6. Aftermarket filters from Mobil 1, Fram, Bosch, and Purolator all make compatible replacements, and they cost between $8 and $15 depending on the brand. The OEM filter runs about $12 to $18 at a Honda dealer or online.

Key Takeaways

  • The 2011 Accord's oil filter is a cartridge type housed in a plastic cylinder on top of the engine, not a spin-on filter underneath like many other cars.
  • Honda part number 15400-PLM-A02 is the correct replacement for all 2011 Accord models, and aftermarket equivalents from major brands work equally well.
  • You will need an oil filter wrench (a socket-style tool that grips the housing cap) and a drain pan, plus new crush washers that come with most replacement filters.
  • The whole job takes 10 to 15 minutes once you have the right tools and a warm engine to help the old oil drain faster.

Tools and supplies you need before you start

Gather these items before you open the hood. You'll need an oil filter socket wrench — a 74mm or 86mm socket (depending on which size fits your housing cap) that attaches to a ratchet. Most auto parts stores sell a universal cartridge filter socket set for $15 to $25 that includes both sizes. Do not try to use a regular wrench or pliers on the housing cap; you'll strip it and create a leak.

You also need a drain pan large enough to hold at least 4 quarts of oil, a jack and jack stands if you're working under the car, and a rag or old towel. Most replacement filters come with new crush washers — small rubber seals that go on either side of the filter element. If your replacement doesn't include them, buy a pair for $2 to $3; reusing old washers is the most common cause of slow leaks after a filter change.

Have the new filter and oil on hand before you start. Check your owner's manual or the label under the hood for the correct oil grade — most 2011 Accords call for 0W-20 or 5W-20, and you'll need 3.7 quarts if you're also draining the pan, or about 3.5 quarts if you're only changing the filter.

Step-by-step filter replacement

Start with the engine warm but not hot — run it for a minute or two, then turn it off and wait five minutes. Warm oil flows faster and drains more completely. Locate the oil filter housing on top of the engine and position your drain pan underneath it. The housing cap is the top of the cylinder; unscrew it counterclockwise using your socket wrench and ratchet. Oil will pour out, so keep the pan directly below.

Once the cap is off, you'll see the old filter element inside — it looks like a pleated paper cartridge. Pull it straight up and out. Wipe the inside of the housing clean with a rag, removing any old rubber bits or debris. Take the new filter element and slide the new crush washers onto the top and bottom (they usually come pre-installed, but double-check). Insert the new element into the housing, pushing it down until it seats.

Screw the housing cap back on by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then use your socket wrench to tighten it. You don't need to crank hard — snug is enough. Wipe up any spilled oil, then start the engine and let it run for 30 seconds. The oil pressure light should go out within a few seconds. Turn off the engine, wait a minute, then check the oil level on the dipstick and top off if needed.

Common mistakes that cause leaks or damage

The most frequent error is forgetting the crush washers or reusing old ones. These washers compress when you tighten the cap and create the seal that stops oil from leaking around the housing. If you skip them or use worn ones, you'll see a slow drip within a few days. Always replace them with every filter change, even if they look fine.

Overtightening the housing cap is the second common mistake. The cap threads into plastic, and if you crank it too hard with the socket wrench, you'll crack the housing or strip the threads. Hand-tight plus a quarter-turn with the wrench is the right amount. If you've already overtightened and see cracks, the whole housing assembly needs replacement — a $40 to $60 part plus labor.

Forgetting to check the oil level after the change is also common. The new filter holds a small amount of oil, so your dipstick reading will be slightly lower than before. Top it off to the full mark, not above it. Overfilling can cause the engine to blow oil out of the breather and coat your engine bay.

When to change the filter and what interval to use

Honda recommends changing the oil and filter every 10,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first, for 2011 Accords driven under normal conditions. If you drive in severe conditions — frequent short trips, towing, dusty roads, or extreme temperatures — change it every 5,000 miles instead. Check your owner's manual for the exact definition of severe driving in your area.

Some owners use synthetic oil and follow the manufacturer's extended interval of 15,000 miles between changes. If you do, you still change the filter at the same time as the oil. The filter degrades at a different rate than the oil itself, so don't skip a filter change just because you're stretching the oil interval.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a spin-on filter instead of the cartridge type?

No. The 2011 Accord is designed for a cartridge filter only, and the housing won't accept a spin-on filter. Trying to adapt one will cause leaks and potential engine damage. Stick with the cartridge type.

What size socket wrench do I need for the housing cap?

Most 2011 Accords use a 74mm socket, but some use 86mm. A universal cartridge filter socket set includes both sizes for about $20, so you don't have to guess. Bring the housing cap to an auto parts store and they can tell you which size fits.

Is it okay to change just the filter without draining the oil?

Yes. You can change the filter alone and skip the oil drain if your oil is still clean and within the correct level. This saves time and oil, though Honda recommends changing both together at the scheduled interval. If you change the filter between oil changes, you'll still need new crush washers.

How tight should I screw the housing cap?

Hand-tight plus a quarter-turn with the socket wrench. The crush washers do the sealing, not brute force. If you overtighten, you risk cracking the plastic housing, which is expensive to replace.

My oil filter housing is leaking slowly. What do I do?

First, check that the crush washers are present and not damaged — this fixes most slow leaks. If the washers are fine and it still leaks, the housing threads may be stripped or cracked, and the entire housing assembly needs replacement. This is a $40 to $60 part plus labor at a shop.