Changing an RV Awning: What You Need to Know Before You Start
An RV awning takes a beating. Sun, wind, rain, and the occasional campsite mishap all add up. When fabric tears, arms bend, or a motor burns out, replacement becomes the next logical step. Changing an RV awning is a manageable project for many owners — but the scope of the job depends heavily on your awning type, your RV's construction, and how much of the work you're prepared to do yourself.
How RV Awnings Are Built
Most RV awnings fall into two categories: manual awnings and electric (motorized) awnings. Both share a similar basic structure — a fabric roll mounted in a tube (called the roller tube), supported by two arms that extend outward from the RV's side wall. The arms connect to mounting brackets fastened to the RV's sidewall or roof rail.
Manual awnings use a hand crank or pull strap to extend and retract. They're mechanically simpler, with fewer components that can fail. Electric awnings add a 12V motor, wiring, a control switch, and sometimes wind sensors and automatic retract features. More function, more potential failure points.
Awning systems are made by several manufacturers — Carefree of Colorado, Dometic (formerly A&E), and Lippert are among the most common — and parts are not always interchangeable between brands or even between model years from the same brand.
What "Changing an Awning" Actually Covers
The phrase covers several distinct repairs, and each has a different scope:
- Fabric-only replacement — The most common job. The roller tube and arms stay in place; only the fabric roll is swapped out. This is the least invasive option.
- Full awning assembly replacement — Arms, hardware, roller tube, and fabric are all replaced together. Necessary when arms are bent, brackets are damaged, or hardware is corroded beyond use.
- Motor replacement — On electric awnings, the motor can be replaced independently without disturbing the entire assembly in most cases.
- Arm or bracket replacement — When one arm fails but the rest of the system is intact, individual components can sometimes be sourced separately.
Understanding which part of your system actually needs replacing will determine how complex the job becomes.
The Fabric Replacement Process 🔧
Replacing awning fabric alone typically involves:
- Fully extending the awning and supporting it safely
- Removing the end caps on the roller tube
- Sliding or rolling the old fabric out of the tube's channel
- Installing new fabric into the channel and securing it
- Reattaching the fabric's lower hem bar to the awning arms
- Reassembling the end caps and testing the roll tension
The fabric is usually held in the roller tube by a spline channel — a groove that the fabric's sewn-in edge slides into. Getting the tension right when reassembling matters. Too loose and the fabric won't roll evenly; too tight and it binds or won't retract fully.
Fabric sizing is critical. RV awning fabrics are measured by the length of the roller tube, not the finished fabric width. A 17-foot awning, for example, needs fabric cut for that specific tube length. Measure carefully before ordering.
Full Assembly Replacement: What Changes
When replacing the entire awning — arms, hardware, and all — the job expands significantly:
- Mounting brackets must be removed from the RV's sidewall, which may involve removing screws or bolts that penetrate through the sidewall into the interior framing
- Sealing the mounting holes is critical. Any penetration into an RV's sidewall must be properly sealed to prevent water intrusion and delamination
- Wiring connections must be disconnected and reconnected if the awning is motorized
- The weight of a full assembly makes a second person essentially necessary for safe handling
The mounting hardware itself varies — some awnings bolt to a roof rail, others mount directly into the sidewall framing. Knowing your RV's wall construction (aluminum frame, wood frame, or composite) affects which fasteners work and how the brackets need to be supported.
Variables That Shape the Job
Several factors will change the difficulty and cost of your specific project:
| Variable | Why It Matters |
|---|---|
| Awning brand and model | Parts availability and fitment compatibility |
| RV type (Class A, B, C, travel trailer, fifth wheel) | Wall height, mounting location, access |
| Manual vs. electric | Wiring, motor sourcing, 12V system involvement |
| Fabric type (vinyl vs. acrylic) | Weight, roll tension, price range |
| Awning size | Larger awnings are heavier and harder to handle solo |
| Age of mounting hardware | Corroded or stripped fasteners complicate removal |
Labor costs for professional installation vary by region and by whether you're at a dealership, an independent RV shop, or a mobile RV tech. A fabric-only swap is typically far less labor-intensive than a full assembly job. Parts prices span a wide range depending on awning size, fabric material, and brand — vinyl fabrics generally run less than solution-dyed acrylic.
DIY Vs. Professional Installation
Fabric replacement is one of the more approachable DIY jobs on an RV, particularly on a manual awning. Instructional videos specific to your awning brand are widely available and worth watching before you start — the process varies enough between brands that brand-specific guidance matters.
Full assembly replacement, especially on motorized systems or larger Class A rigs, raises the stakes. Improper sealing of wall penetrations is a common source of long-term water damage that can cost far more to repair than the awning itself. 🌧️
The Missing Pieces
The right approach depends on which part of your awning actually failed, which brand and model you have, how your RV is constructed, and whether you're equipped to handle the sealing and wiring aspects safely. Those details aren't just background context — they're the whole answer.