What Autocheck is and what it shows

Autocheck is a vehicle history report compiled by Experian that pulls data from auctions, insurance companies, DMV records, and service centers to build a timeline of a car's past. It shows title problems, accident damage, mileage discrepancies, service records, and ownership changes — the same categories as a Carfax report, but with different data sources and a different scoring system.

The report assigns each vehicle an Autocheck Score between 1 and 100, where higher numbers mean fewer red flags. This score is meant to give you a quick sense of risk, but the individual data points in the report matter more than the number itself. A car with a score of 75 might have a clean title and no accidents but high mileage, while a score of 60 might flag a single salvage title that you can see and evaluate yourself.

Autocheck is often cheaper than Carfax — you can buy a single report for roughly $20 to $25, or a subscription for multiple reports — but it has less data on routine maintenance and doesn't always catch accidents that weren't reported to insurance or didn't result in a claim.

Key Takeaways

  • Autocheck pulls from auctions, insurance claims, and DMV records to flag title issues, accidents, mileage problems, and ownership history.
  • The Autocheck Score (1–100) is a quick reference, but the actual data points in the report are what matter when deciding whether to buy.
  • Autocheck costs less than Carfax per report but may miss accidents that weren't reported to insurance or didn't trigger a claim.
  • A clean Autocheck report doesn't may provide the car has no damage — get a pre-purchase inspection from a mechanic regardless of what the report says.

How to read the main sections of an Autocheck report

The report opens with the vehicle identification number (VIN), basic specs (year, make, model, color), and the Autocheck Score. Below that, you'll see a timeline of events — usually starting with the car's manufacture date and moving forward through ownership changes, title transfers, and reported incidents.

The Title and Ownership section shows how many owners the car has had and whether the title is clean, salvage, rebuilt, or branded with other flags like flood or lemon law buyback. This is the most important part: a salvage title means the car was declared a total loss by an insurance company at some point, and a rebuilt title means it was repaired and re-registered after that. Both are legal to own and drive, but they affect resale value and insurance cost.

The Accident and Damage section lists reported collisions, usually pulled from insurance claims or police reports. If Autocheck shows an accident, the report may include the type of damage (front-end, side, rear) and whether airbags deployed. However, minor accidents that didn't trigger an insurance claim won't appear here.

The Service Records section pulls from participating repair shops and dealerships and shows maintenance history — oil changes, tire rotations, major repairs. This data is incomplete because not all shops report to Autocheck, so an empty service section doesn't mean the car was never serviced.

What Autocheck does not catch

Autocheck relies on reported data, so it misses accidents and damage that were paid for out of pocket, never reported to insurance, or happened at a shop that doesn't report to Experian. A car could have been in a minor fender-bender, repaired at an independent shop, and show a clean Autocheck report.

The report also doesn't assess the quality of repairs or whether damage was fixed properly. A car with a rebuilt title may have been repaired to factory standards or may have been patched together cheaply — the report won't tell you which. That's why a pre-purchase inspection by a trusted mechanic is essential, regardless of what Autocheck shows.

Autocheck also doesn't include information about recalls, outstanding liens, or whether the odometer reading is accurate across all records. You'll need to check the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) website separately for recalls, and a mechanic can spot signs of odometer fraud during an inspection.

Autocheck versus Carfax: which report to use

Both Autocheck and Carfax pull from similar sources — insurance claims, auctions, DMV records — but they don't always have the same data. Carfax has stronger relationships with dealerships and service centers, so it often shows more maintenance records. Autocheck has better auction data, so it may catch cars that were sold at salvage auctions before being resold to consumers.

The scoring systems are different too. Carfax uses a straightforward "check engine" icon system and a buyback may provide for certain cars, while Autocheck uses the 1–100 score. Neither system is perfect, and a car with a good score on one service might have a lower score on the other.

The practical approach: if you're buying from a dealer, ask whether they've run Carfax or Autocheck already and request a copy. If you're buying from a private seller, run whichever report is cheaper or fastest for you — the difference in what you'll learn is small compared to the value of a mechanic's inspection. Some buyers run both to cross-check, but that's optional.

How to order an Autocheck report

Go to Autocheck.com and enter the vehicle's VIN. You'll see pricing options: a single report typically costs $20–$25, and a 5-report or 10-report package costs less per report if you're shopping for multiple cars. You'll need to provide an email address and payment method (credit or debit card).

The report generates when ready after payment and is delivered to your email. You can view it online or read it as a PDF. Keep the PDF — you'll want to review it with a mechanic before making an offer, and you may want to reference it later if you have questions about the car's history.

Some dealerships and auction sites (like Copart or IAA) include Autocheck reports for free or as part of their listing, so check there first before paying out of pocket.

Red flags to watch for in an Autocheck report

A salvage or rebuilt title is the biggest red flag and should trigger serious consideration before you buy. The car is legal to own, but it will be harder to insure and resell, and repairs may not have been done to factory standards. Ask the seller for documentation of the repairs and get a mechanic to inspect the car thoroughly.

Multiple ownership changes in a short time (say, three owners in two years) can signal that previous buyers had problems with the car, though it can also just mean the car was flipped for profit. Look at the timeline: if ownership changed every few months, ask the seller why.

Mileage that jumps backward or stays the same across multiple records is a sign of odometer fraud. If the report shows the car at 50,000 miles at one service visit and then 48,000 miles at the next, that's a problem. A mechanic can also spot signs of high mileage (worn steering wheel, worn pedals, interior wear) that don't match the odometer reading.

Flood damage or fire damage is serious and usually makes a car unsafe to buy. If the report shows either, walk away unless you're buying the car for parts or have a specific reason to take on that risk.

What to do after you get the Autocheck report

Review the report with the seller and ask about anything that stands out. If there's an accident listed, ask what happened and whether the car was repaired. If there's a title issue, ask for documentation of the repair or buyback process. A seller who's transparent about the car's history is more trustworthy than one who gets defensive.

Schedule a pre-purchase inspection with a mechanic before you commit to buying. Bring the Autocheck report with you so the mechanic knows what to look for. If the report shows an accident, the mechanic can check whether the frame was straightened properly and whether there's hidden damage.

If the Autocheck report shows a clean history but the mechanic finds major problems, that's a sign the damage wasn't reported to insurance — which is fine, but it means you're buying a car with undisclosed repair history. Factor that into your offer.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is an Autocheck report the same as a Carfax report?

No. Both pull from insurance claims and DMV records, but they have different data sources and scoring systems. Carfax often has more dealership service records, while Autocheck has better auction data. Neither is complete, so some buyers run both to cross-check, but one report is usually enough if you also get a mechanic's inspection.

Can I get a free Autocheck report?

Some dealerships and auction sites include free Autocheck reports with their listings. If you're buying from a private seller, you'll usually need to pay $20–$25 for a single report. Some credit cards or car-buying services offer free reports as a benefit, so check whether you have access through another source before paying.

What does a salvage title mean in an Autocheck report?

A salvage title means the car was declared a total loss by an insurance company and sold to a salvage yard or rebuilder. The car is legal to own and drive, but it will be harder to insure and resell. You should get a mechanic to inspect it thoroughly and ask the seller for documentation of the repairs before you buy.

Should I buy a car with a low Autocheck Score?

The score is just a starting point. A car with a score of 60 might have a single salvage title (which you can see and evaluate) but otherwise be reliable, while a score of 75 might reflect high mileage or multiple ownership changes that don't necessarily mean the car is unsafe. Look at the actual data points in the report, not just the number.

What if the Autocheck report is clean but the mechanic finds problems?

That means the damage wasn't reported to insurance, which is common for minor accidents or repairs paid out of pocket. It's not a deal-breaker, but it means you're buying a car with undisclosed repair history. Use the mechanic's findings to negotiate a lower price or walk away if the repairs are major.